Full-fashioned hosiery and method of making same



Dec. 28, 1954 KQHLER ETAL 2,697,923

FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed June 27, 1952 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTORS. PAUL E KOHLER FEEDER/(K K. KOHLE/E Dec. 28,1954 P. F. KOHLER ETAL FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed June 27, 1952 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 m My OEH W T50 P N k 0 E r VHVA. 7 m A K K ff mm mm YM B Dec. 28, 1954 P. F. KOHLER ETAL 2,597,923

FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed June 27, 1952 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 INVENTORS. PAUL E KOHL ER y FREDERICK 1r. KOHLER Dec. 28, 1954 P. F. KOHLER ETAL FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed June 27, 1952' 5 hees-Sheet 4 '50 INVENTORS.

PAUL F KOHLEA? BY FEEDER/CA k. I'K'OHLE/Q W WWW Q A TTOP/YE 7T Dec. 28, 1954 P. F. KOHLER ETAL 2,697,923

FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed June 2'7, 1952 5 Sneaks-Sheet 5 INVENTORS.

- PAUL F. KOHLEE BY FREDERICK K. AOHLEI? WMW stage in the method of making hosiery embodying our invention.

Figure 13 represents an elevational view of the yarn, knock-over bit, needle and picot point, illustrating a further stage in the method of making hosiery embodying our invention.

Figure 14 represents a plan view, partly in section, of a subsequent stage in the method of making hosiery embodying our invention.

Figure 15 represents a perspective view of a later stage in the method of making hosiery embodying our invention.

Figure 16 represents a perspective view of a further stage in the method of making hosiery embodying our invention.

Figure 17 represents a perspective view of a subsequent stage in the method of making hosiery embodying our invention.

Figure 18 represents a plan view of the first course in the formation of hosiery, after the formation of loops therein in accordance with a method embodying our invention.

Figure 19 represents a diagrammatic plan view of the first course in the formation of hosiery in accordance with a method embodying our invention, showing the position of the yarn during a transfer operation in accordance with said method.

Figure 20 represents a diagrammatic plan view of the first course in a subsequent stage of the transfer operation, and showing the same in relation to the needles, in accordance with a method embodying our invention.

Figure 21 represents a diagrammatic plan view of the first and second courses of hosiery embodying our invention.

Figure 22 represents a diagrammatic plan view of the first, second and third courses of hosiery embodying our invention.

While the hosiery of our invention is capable of being manufactured in accordance with the method of our invention on substantially any standard full-fashioned hosiery machine, it is possible to make said hosiery in accordance with said method and without substituting or incorporating new parts or machinery, in that type of hosiery machine known as the HSU machine built by Schubert & Salzer. Thus, in a preferred form, the hosiery machine is equipped with needles having shanks 29 and spring-beards 31, sinkers 32, dividers 33, knockover bits 34 and picot bars 35 having picot points 36.

The needles 3t). sinkers 32, dividers 33 and picot bar 35 with its points 36, may be of substantially any stand ard construction. Each knock-over bit 34 may be of the standard Schubert & Salzer knock-over bit construction; but in any event should comprise a nose 37 on which loops may be deposited, a finger 38 extending forwardly from the base portion 39 thereof which is disposed above, and rearwardly of, the nose 37, thereby defining a recess 40 between the finger 38 and the nose 37. The nose 37 itself preferably comprises a forward yarn-receiving portion 41, and a rearward cam portion 42 extending rearwardly and upwardly from the yarn-receiving portion 41 to the base portion 39 of the finger 38. The recess 40 is preferably thus defined by the lower edge 43 of the finger 38, extending rearwardly to the base portion 39, and the cam portion 42 extending downwardly and forwardly from said base portion 39 to the yam-receiving portion 41. The knock-over bits 34 are preferably movable in the manner which is standard with the HSU machine built by Schubert & Salzer.

According to our invention, we may lay the first course 44 of yarn 45 behind the needles 30 and beneath the beards 31 thereof, advance the sinkers 32 to form the initial loops, and advance the dividers 33 thereby to dispose loops 46 between each pair of needles 30 in substantially the same manner as is customary practice. The sinkers 32 and dividers 33 are then retracted, and the knock-over bits 34 may be advanced in a manner to receive the loops 46 on the yarn-receiving portions 41 of the noses 37, as the needles are lowered, catching the yarn 45 in their beards.

The knock-over bits 34 are then continued in their advance so as to reduce the space between the base portion 39 and the shank 29 respectively of each adiacent knock-over bit 34 and needle 30, until the recess 40 of said knock-over bit 34 is substantially closed by said shank 29, with the yarn 45 passing through said recess 40 and being thus locked therein. During this stage, the needles 30 are raised until their beards have released the yarn 45, said yarn remaining locked between the finger 38, cam 42 and needle shank 29.

The picot bar 35 is then brought into position with its picot points 36 disposed immediately behind the beards, which may sometimes be hereinafter referred to as 31a, of every other needle 30 mounted in the needle bar (not shown); and the needles 30 together with the adjacent knock-over bits 34 are simultaneously moved rearwardly until said beards 31a are closed by the picot points 36, while the yarn continues to remain in interlocked condition in the recesses 40, substantially as is illustrated in Figure 7.

The needles 30, together with the picot points 36 are then simultaneously lowered until the free beards, which may hereinafter be referred to as 3112, again engage the yarn 45 which is interlocked within the recesses ii In this process the picot points 36, covering the beards 31a and bearing against the shanks 29 of the needles thereof, prevent the yarn 45 from interlocking with the beards 31a and cause said yarn instead to cam upwardly along the rearward edges 47 of the picot points 36 and to become engaged thereby, all substantially as illustrated in Figure 8.

The needles 30, together with contiguous picot points 36 are then simultaneously raised until said picot points 36 have cleared the noses 37 of the knock-over bits while the beards 31b preferably extend below the earns 42 and the upper edges 41 of the noses 37, substantially as is illustrated in Figure 9.

The knock-over bits 34 may then be retracted sufficiently to free the picot points 36 from interference by the fingers 38 against lateral motion; and; if. desired, simultaneously therewith the needles 30 may then be moved forwardly a distance suificient to release the beards 31a, substantially as is illustrated in Figure 10. At this stage, it will be found that alternate beards, designated herein as 31b are holding the yarn 45, while intermediate beards 31a are free of yarn, andinstead the yarn which is thus rendered free is carried by the rearward edges 47 of the picot points 36.

The picot bar is then moved so as to dispose the picot points 36 in alignment with the next adjacent needles 30. In this movement, they carry with them loops 46:: which were formerly at one time disposed within the beards 31a and which were transferred from the needles thereof to the picot points 36, all as hereinbefore described.

The picot points 36, together with the needles 319 are then simultaneously lowered until the upper edges of the needles 30 are disposed beneath the upper edges and the camming edges 42 of the noses 37, thereby carrying the loops 46b engaged within the beards 31b below said edges 41 and 42 while the loops 46a are resting on said edges, and the yarn 45 intermediate adiacent picot points 36 rests on edges 41 or 42 of intermediate knockover bits 34, substantially as is illustrated in Figure 12.

The needles 30 are then moved rearwardly, thereby disposing rearwardly of said intermediate yarn 45, the needles 300. which carry the free beards 31a. and simultaneously engaging the alternate beards 31b with the picot points 36; and the knock-over bits 34 are advanced until the loops 46a are engaged within the recesses 40. and said recesses 40 are disposed substantially forwardly of said picot points 36 and the needles 30, preferably in a manner to draw the yarn 45 taut, substantially as is illustrated in Figures 13 and 14.

The needles 30 are then raised, and the picot bar (not shown) together with its picot points 36 are withdrawn. In this condition, it will be found that the loops 46b are all disposed rearwardly of the needle shanks 29 on every other needle 30b; and the loops 46a are disposed forwardly of the needle shanks 29 of the alternate needles 30, substantially as is illustrated in Figure 15.

The needles 30 are then raised to their initial position, while the yarn 45 remains in interlooped condition therewith. with loops 46b disposed behind alternate needles and beneath the beards 31b thereof, while the intermediate needles are free, substantially as is illustrated in Figure 16.

The next course 50 is then laid behind the needles 3t) and beneath all the beards 31. The normal knitting operation may then be followed with respect to said second course 50. In this operation, it will be found that the loops of the second course 50 will interknit of the spring beard on the needles 30:1.

with the loops of the first course 44. Thus, the same procedure may be followed with respect to the second course 50 as was already described herein with respect to the first course 44 and illustrated in Figures 1, 2 and 3, thereby forming loops 51 about each needle 30, and intermediate loops 52 disposed between adjacent needles 30. As the normal knitting process is continued with respect to the course 50, the spring-beards 31 engage the course 50 in the usual manner and are pressed against the shanks 29 in the customary presser action while the needles and course 50 are drawn downwardly toward the knock-over bits in the usual motion which is established to draw the new course through the loops of the last preceding course. However, the loops of the last preceding course are disposed only on alternate needles 3%, and thus only loops 51b of the course 50 are interknit with the loops 46b while the intermediate loops 51a of the course 50 remain free of interknitting by However, it will be found that the, loops 51a are in fact interknit with the loops 46a by virtue of being disposed on opposite sides of the yarn 45 of the course 44 from the sides of said yarn against which the loops 51!) are disposed. Moreover, it will be found that the yarn 45 is thus interthreaded between the loops 52, while the loops 51 are held by the needles 30. When the third course 53 is laid against the needles 30, and said course is interknit with the loops 51 in the customary manner of knitting, it will be found that all the loops of the courses preceding said third course have been interknit one with the other. indeed, all courses following the first course 44 may be knit by following the customary knitting procedure, and it will .be found that following said first course 44-, wales 56 may be established in the usual manner and leading to the course 50 which to all intents and purposes will have the appearance of being the first course, while the course 44 will serve as an interlocking thread holding the apparent first course in place against ravelling.

There is thus established a full-fashioned hosiery having a non-ravel beginning course which may be made to retain neat-appearing wales extending continuously to its first apparent course. In this manner, single welts may be formed, neatly and inexpensively, and many forms of stockings which have hitherto been impossible to'rnake, are now rendered available.

We are aware that the invention may be embodied in other specific forms without departing from the spirit or essential attributes thereof, and I therefore desire the present embodiments to be considered in all respects as illustrative and not restrictive, reference being had to the appended claims rather than to the foregoing description to indicate the scope of the invention.

laying thus described our invention, what we claim as new and desire to obtain by Letters Patent is:

l. The method of making full-fashioned hosiery on a hosiery machine having a carrier, sinkers, dividers, needies, 21 picot bar, and knock-over bits having a nose and finger disposed behind and above said nose in a manner to define a recess therebetween; comprising moving the carrier in a manner to lay a length of yarn behind the needles and on the nibs of the sinkers and dividers; moving said sinkers forward in a manner to form loops between alternate pairs of needles; moving said dividers forward in a manner to provide one loop between each adjacent pair of needles; withdrawing said sinkers and dividers and disposing said yarn on the noses of said knock-over bits; reducing the space between the shanks of said needles and said recesses in said knock-over bits, operably to interlock said yarn between said fingers and said shanks, and within said recesses; bringing said picot bar into juxtaposition to said needles in a manner to close the beards of alternate needles; lowering said neeles and said picot bar operably to interlock the yarn with beards of every other needle, and to pass the yarn behind the picot points which are closing the beards of the alternate needles; releasing said yarn from said recesses in said knock-over bits; separating said picot bar and said needles and transferring the picot points of said picot bar to the next adjacent needles, operably to carry substantially with said points the yarn which was disposed behind said points, in a manner to form lateral loops; laying said lateral loops on the noses of said knock-over bits; lowering the needles until their upper edges are disposed beneath the upper edges of said noses, while said picot points are in: substantially close contiguity to the needles to which they have been transferred; bringing the needles into positionbeneath said fingers; therebycarrying into said recesses the yarn adjacent every needle with whose beards said yarn has been interlocked, and disposing the yarn behind the shanks of needles with whose beards it has not been interlocked; raising the needles with respect to said knock-over bits, in a manner tointerlock the needle-bearded portion of said yarn: within said recesses and to dispose the unbearded portions of said yarn outside of said recesses; withdrawing said picot points; raising said needles to yarn-receiving position; laying the next course of yarn beneath the beards of said needles; and proceeding with the knitting operation whereby said next course is interknitted with the loops of the first course thus formed between alte nate needles and lying on the knock-over bits.

2. The method of making full-fashioned hosiery on a hosiery machine having a carrier, sinkers; dividers, needles, a picot bar, and knock-over bits having a nose and a finger disposed behind and above said nose in a manner to define a recess therebetween; comprising moving the carrier in a manner to lay a length of yarn behind the needles and on the nibs of the sinkers and dividers formingv loops on said first course by means of said sinkers and dividers; withdrawing said sinkers and dividers and disposing said yarn on the noses of said knock-over bits; reducing the space between the shanks of said needl'es and said recesses in said knock-over bits, operably to interlock said yarn between said fingers and said shanks, and within said recesses; bringing said picot bar into juxtaposition to said needles in a manner to close the beards of alternate needles; lowering said needles and said picot bar operably tointerlock the yarn with beards of every other needle, and to pass the yarn behind the picot points which are closing the beards of the alternate needles; releasing said yarn from said recesses in said knock-over hits while retaining said needles with the lower edges of said beards below the upper edges of said noses; separating said picot bar and said needles and transferring. the picot points of said picot bar to the next adjacent needles, operably to carry substantially with said points the yarn which was disposed behind said points, in a manner to form lateral loops; laying said lateral loops on the noses of said knock-over bits; lowering the needles until their upper edges are disposed beneath the upper edges of said noses, while said picot points are in substantially close contiguity to the needles to which they have been transferred; bringing the needles into position beneath said fingers, thereby carrying into said recesses the yarn adjacent every needle with whose beards said yarn has been interlocked, and disposing the yarn behind the shanks of needles with. whose beards it has not been interlocked; disposing said recesses forwardly of said needles in a manner to tension the yarn; raising the needles with respect to said knock-over bits, in a manner'to interlock the needle-bearded portion of said yarn within said recesses'and to dispose the unbearded portions of said yarn outside of said recesses; withdrawing said picot points; raising said needles to yarn-receiving position; laying the next course of yarn beneath the beards of said needles; and proceeding with the knitting operation whereby said next course is interknitted with the loops of the first course thus disposed alternately before and behind adjacent needles.

3. The method of making full-fashioned hosiery on a hosiery machine having a carrier, sinkers, dividers, needles, a picot bar, and knock-over bits having a nose and a finger disposed behind and above said nose in a manner to define a recess therebetween; comprising moving the carrier in a manner to lay a length of yarn behind the needles and on the nibs of the sinkers and dividers; moving said sinkers forward in a manner to form loops between alternate pairs of needles; moving said dividers forward in a manner to provide one loop between each adjacent pair of needles; withdrawing said sinkers and dividers and disposing said yarn on the noses of said knock-over bits; reducing the space between the shanks of said needles and said recesses in said knock over bits, operably to interlock said yarn between said fingers and said shanks, and within said recesses; bringing said picot bar into juxtaposition to said needles in a. manner to close the beards of alternate needles; lowering said needles and said picot bar operably to interlock the yarn with beards of every other needle, and to pass the yarn behind the picot points which are closing the beards of the alternate needles; releasing said yarn from said recesses in said knock-over bits; separating said picot bar and said needles and transferring the picot points of said picot bar to the next adjacent needles, operably to carry substantially with said points the yarn which was disposed behind said points, in a manner to form lateral loops; laying said lateral loops on the noses of said knock-over bits; lowering the needles until their upper edges are disposed beneath the upper edges of said noses, while said picot points are in substantially close contiguity to the needles to which they have been transferred; bringing the needles into position beneath said fingers, thereby carrying into said recesses the yarn adjacent every needle with whose beards said yarn has been interlocked, and disposing the yarn behind the shanks of' needles with whose beards it has not been interlocked; raising the needles with respect to said knock-over bits, in a manner to interlock the needle-bearded portion of said yarn within said recesses and to dispose the unbearded portions of said yarn outside of said recesses; withdrawing said picot points; raising said needles to yarn-receiving position; laying the next course of yarn beneath the beards of said needles; forming loops about adjacent needles; engaging said last mentioned loops within the beards of said needles and drawing said loops downwardly below the level of the loops of said first course; moving said needles rearwardly and upwardly operably to interknit said loops of said second course with. the loops of said first course.

4. The method of making full-fashioned hosiery on a hosiery machine having a carrier, sinkers, dividers, needles, a picot bar, and knock-over bits having a nose and a finger disposed behind and above said nose in a manner to define a recess therebetween; comprising moving the carrier in a manner to lay a length of yarn behind the needles and on the nibs of the sinkers and dividers forming loops on said first course by means of said sinkers and dividers; withdrawing said sinkers and dividers and disposing said yarn on the noses of said knock-over bits; reducing the space between the shanks of said needles and said recesses in said knock-over bits, operably to interlock said yarn between said fingers and said shanks, and within said recesses; bringing said picot bar into juxtaposition to said needles in a manner to close the beards of alternate needles; lowering said needles and said picot bar operably to interlock the yarn with beards of every other needle, and to pass the yarn behind the picot points which are closing the beards of the alternate needles; releasing said yarn from said recesses in said knock-over bits while retaining said needles with the lower edges of their beards below the upper edges of said noses; separating said picot bar and said needles and transferring the picot points of said picot bar to the next adjacent needles, operably to carry substantially with said points the yarn which was disposed behind said points, in a manner to form lateral loops; laying said lateral loops on the noses of said knock-over bits; lowering the needles until their upper edges are disposed beneath the upper edges of said noses, while said picot 6 points are in substantially close contiguity to the needles to which they have been transferred; bringing the needles into position beneath said fingers, thereby carrying lnto Eli) said recesses the yarn adjacent every needle with whose beards said yarn has been interlocked, and disposing the yarn behind the shanks of needles with whose beards it has not been interlocked; disposing said recesses forwardly of said needles in a manner to tension the yarn; raising the needles with respect to said knock-over bits, in a manner to interlock the needle-bearded portion of said yarn within said recesses and to dispose the unbearded portions of said yarn outside of said recesses; withdrawing said picot points; raising said needles to yarn-receiving position; laying the next course of yarn beneath the beards of said needles; forming loops about adjacent needles; engaging said last mentioned loops within the beards of said needles and drawing said loops downwardly below the level of the loops of said first course; moving said needles rearwardly and upwardly, operably to interknit said loops of said second course with the loops of said first course.

5. The method of making full-fashioned hosiery on a hosiery machine having a carrier, sinkers, dividers, bearded needles, a picot bar, and knock-over bits having a nose and a finger disposed behind and above said nose n a manner to define a recess therebetween; compris ing moving the carrier in a manner to lay a length of yarn behind the needles and beneath the beards thereof; forming loops on said first course by means of said sinkers and dividers; drawing said yarn onto the noses of said knockover bits; disposing said yarn within the recesses of said knock-over bits and substantially locking said yarn therein by means of moving the shanks of said needles behind the forward edges of said fingers; raising said needles in a manner to free the yarn from said beards; closing the beards of selected needles by means of said picot bar; lowering said needles and said picot bar operable to interlock the yarn with beards of free needles, and to pass the yarn behind the picot points which engage needles whose beards are closed thereby; withdrawing said yarn from said recesses; transferring the yarn disposed behind said picot points by relative movement of said picot points and said needles, said transfer being continued until each of said picot points is disposed adjacent a needle different from the needle against which it was originally disposed; lowering said needles and picot points until the upper edges of said needles are disposed below the upper edges of said noses; moving said picot points and needle rearwardly until said yarn is tightly engaged within said recesses, and disposed behind free-bearded needles; withdrawing said picot points and rasing said needles; laying a second course of yarn beneath the beards of said needles; forming loops of said second course about ad- }!CI1II needles; drawing said last-mentioned loops downwardly until the second course loops are drawn through such loops of the first course as were disposed behind said needles when said second course was laid.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,067,486 Gastrich Jan. 12, 1937 2,146,056 Dengler Feb. 7, 1939 2,181,820 Sachsenrnaier Nov. 28, 1939 2,276,906 Sachsenmaier Mar. 17, 1942 

